Place all machines used in a rack and set it in the ultrasonic cleaner for 30 minutes to be cleaned. Mix a 5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution and put on your plastic apron and rubber gloves. Fill 2 glass or stainless shallow pans with straight bleach (must be puncture proof) and begin to wipe down everything that was handled during the tattoo procedure (ink bottles, machine rack, transformer, clipper cord, sink faucet handles, table top, spray bottles, etc.). Turn off ultrasonic cleaner and break down machines. Remove needle bars and place them as a unit in one of the pans clearly marked “Sharps”. Pull the glass tubes from the machine rack and place them in the other pan marked “Glass Tubes”. Continue to clean the machines by throwing the rubber bands away and wiping each machine off with the bleach solution then place them in your drawer. Mop the floor and carry the 2 pans to the cleaning area. Wipe out the trash can and replace the liner. Staple the trash bag closed and autoclave it. Recover your table. Pour your bucket of used bleach solution down the drain, this is acceptable.

Posted on September 1st, 2008 by admin
Tags: dolphin tattoos, fairy tattoos, tattoo, tattoo art

Never go into a stock bottle while working, but instead pour from it into the sterile one-use container being used: e.g. ink into small plastic cups or paper cups presterilized. Remove vaseline with a sterile tongue blade, etc.
Never touch your face, hair, or eyes while tattooing. If you have to, remove and throw away your gloves; wash your hands again before putting on another pair of gloves. Never smoke, eat, drink, or apply make-up in the tattoo room. Never blow water out of or off a tattoo machine. If the machine is dropped, put it out of service.
After the tattooing process is complete, clean the tattooed area with green soap and dry it. With a tongue blade, apply a heavy coat of Bacitracin ointment or triple antibiotic ointment to the area. Cover with a Telfa pad and either tape them in place using hypoallergenic tape (called Dermalite) or bandage with a conforming gauze called Kerlex. Another fine bandage is called Coban in that it sticks to itself and is elastic. Give the client a tattoo care card so he knows what to do and what not to do.
An example of a care instruction flyer for you to hand to your client would read like this:
1.            Remove the bandage in 2 hours.
2.           Wash the area with Ivory soap and cold water; be sure to wash off all of the small red spots.
3.            Blot dry. Air dry 10 minutes.
4.            Apply a thin layer of Bacitracin or triple antibiotic ointment like you are trying to push it in.
5.           Apply the ointment every 3 to 4 hours- keep it shiny.
6.            No salt water or chlorinated swimming pools until healed.
7.            No direct sunlight for 30 days.
8.            If it scabs, DO NOT PICK IT.
9.            Relieve the itch by slapping or scratch the area around it.
10.          Keep it covered with loose, clean clothing.

Posted on September 1st, 2008 by admin
Tags: free tattoo patterns, tattoo, tattoo art, tattoos

If you sterilize liquids, use the “slow exhaust” or the inside of the clave will wear it! The clave will sterilize everything except some rubber items and most plastics. For tabletop models use only distilled water (HOH). Filters are supplied for floor models.
Clean the clave once a week according to manufacturer’s specs. If you don’t, the company rep will be only too glad to pick it up and refurbish it for you when it fails to operate. It will be gone 3 to 6 weeks and carry the National Debt when returned. Check it with a spore strip once a month, and keep a running record in a log book. Log all maintenance, it makes good sense.
Never stand over a clave when you open the door, as the residual, steam, when exiting upward, will burn you. If liquids are autoclaved, remove the bottle tops, jar tops, etc., and place them inverted on the tray or shelf of the clave. Remember to slow exhaust.

The Ultrasonic Cleaner
This machine in no way sterilizes, it is a cleaner only. If you use one once, you’ll buy it, as it’s simply indispensable. It will remove dried ink from tubes and needle bars quickly. It works on a unique process. A cleaning solution is added to the tank and the soiled article is suspended in it. The machine, when turned on, cleans with microwave energy. It forms small bubbles on the dirty surface and causes them to implode. This action pulls the dirt away from the surface leaving it clean.
The tank should be sanitized with a 10% bleach solution whenever it is emptied.

Posted on September 1st, 2008 by admin
Tags: girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, star tattoos, tattoo

Skin is the outer covering of the body, it consists of an outer layer called epidermis and an inner layer called the dermis. Beneath that is fatty tissue. The epidermis protects the body from injury and invasion of parasites. Skin is waterproof and helps contain water in the body. Skin also excretes poisons (sweat) and also acts as a sense organ. The point here is that skin is not some board to be etched on but an actual working, organism to be dealt with carefully, so extra sensitivity is needed.

Up to a point, all skin shares a common bond and certain characteristics. Beyond that, the variation is infinite. You should be aware of this because eventually you will come in contact with it all. Some people’s skin is quite flaky while others are naturally oily. Some skin seems to reject ink through an entire tattoo, and some accepts it quite readily. Certain people have extremely sensitive skin and others just the opposite, totally impervious to abrasion, as it seems. You should be aware of the type of skin that you are dealing with. For example, you shouldn’t grab everyone the same way, some bruise more easily. Be open to individual needs. No matter what skin type a person has, it can all be somewhat equalized in texture by keeping it moist. Always keep the skin lubricated with vaseline or bacitracin ointment while working on it.
A good tattoo does not have to go extremely deep to stay permanent, but can survive quite satisfactorily in just the epidermis layers of the skin.

Posted on August 13th, 2008 by admin
Tags: lower back tattoos, star tattoos, tattoo, tattoo art

When soldering the shader groups on the shader bars, you can use the same needle bar jig, just switch bar heads for shader groups. The rules are the same, with the loop of the bar facing to the right and the bar riding under the needle group. Remember to use the flat needle bars for shaders.
The final touch on the shaders will be the spreading of the needles. This process will also apply to four needle flat shaders. It is a known fact that spread or forked shader needles (whichever you prefer to call them) will put ink in the skin faster and better than a set of needles that are not spread. Also, spreading of the needles takes up the slack in the tube tip and does away with any side motion of the needles which could cause splattering or possibly cutting of the skin. When spreading the needles with a thin bladed knife, be very careful not to snap the outside needle. If you do, you can always trim the needle off, likewise the other side and use it for a four needle shader. Do not overspread the needles or they will bind inside the tube tip and the results will be that there is such a drag of two metals rubbing together, your machine will not function properly. Refer to needle spreading diagrams.
Take your time when practicing. Check all needles with an eve loupe in all phases of needle making. Extreme care should be used when handling needles in needle making or very few indeed will make it to the sterilization. With practice, your needles will be something to be proud of, perfect in uniformity and professional in their usage as a tattoo instrument.

Posted on August 12th, 2008 by admin
Tags: tattoo, Tattoo designs, tattoos, tribal tattoos

One needle groups actually have three needles in them. Two are soldered slight-ly back and the third needle (the tattooing one) is sticking out just ahead of the other two. The two that are back add stability and guidance to the one which is forward and this group is popularly called “single needle.” This is the one that you hear so much about.

It makes a very fine line on the skin. Three needle groups are three needles soldered together and are perfectly flush with each other on the tattooing end. It makes a little thicker line and fíve needle groups make even a thicker one. All of these groups are soldered on liner bars and are generally used for just outlining a tattoo. The outline of a tattoo gets thicker as the size of the tattoo increases. Single needle for small pieces, the three needle for médium pieces, four needle for bigger pieces, and fíve needle for larger pieces such as back work. As the size of the tattoo increases, the outline of it (in thickness) also increases proportionally.
The above also holds true for shading needles. These groups are soldered fíat on shading bars. One needle is right next to the other, on a fíat line, as opposed to liners which are soldered in a circular group. The most common sized shaders are four needle shaders and six needle shaders.
The four needle shader is used for smaller áreas being shaded and the six needle shader being used for larger áreas. The only exception is the big 14 needle round shader, used for large work. This group holds so many needles that it is made round instead of fíat.

Posted on August 1st, 2008 by admin
Tags: free tattoo designs, tattoo, tattoo art, Tattoo designs, tattoos

One of the most important aspects of all the various mechanics in tattooing, would be the tattoo needle. Sterilization is important, the machines are important and designs are important. But, the tattoo needle is the only link between you and the customer and it is there where all of the other factors meet with the skin. Needles actually puncture the skin and for this reason they must be perfect, absolutely flawless, sharp, straight and in perfect condition.
Needles are soldered on bars called needle bars. There are two types of needle bars, liners and shaders. Liner needle bars are round on the end where the needles are soldered. Shader needle bars are fíat on the end where the needles are soldered.

Liners are grouped tightly together to do outlining with. Shaders are grouped flat, next to each other, to do shading. Use the best needles and needle bars money can buy. They are that important. Don’t mess around with inexpensive needles or sale Ítems. High quality needles are easier on the customer (pain and health wise) and on you (making the tattoo cleaner and sharper). They are not that much more expensive. As a matter of fact, the best needles and bars in the world are not that much at all. Don’t compromise on these Ítems, or you will never be a good tattooist.

Posted on August 1st, 2008 by admin
Tags: girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, tattoo, tattoo art

Take a hold of a new tattoo machine. With the tube to the left and the coils going to the right, let’s study a couple of things. Study the Parts Diagram to learn just what an armature bar, springs, coils and contact points are. Notice the spring and contact points on the armature bar. Observe the loop on the end of the needle bar and where the tube enters the frame and the rubber bands. Finally, check out the tube tip with the needle tips retracted inside the tube end. Now, fully depress the armature bar against the coils. The needles move downward. Observe the gap being created by the contact point on the spring being separated from the contact screw and the length of the needle tips that are coming out and being exposed out of the tube tip. This is the electrical motion of the tattoo machine when it is being operated. Get familiar with this motion and understand it because it will come in handy when disassembly and assembly procedures are explained.

Posted on July 25th, 2008 by admin
Tags: star tattoos, tattoo, tattoo art, Tattoo designs, tribal tattoos

Some tattooists prefer light machines and some prefer heavy ones. This is why some manufacturers offer such models as “lightweights,” but it should be kept in mind that any machine, no matter how hefty it might feel at first, will take some getting used to. But in the long run, it will feel quite good and stable to use. The heft of a machine also acts as a “shock absorber.” The tattoo machine when being used gives off vibrations and these can get you tired awfully fast. Just like certain stabilizers or heavy barreled guns, the more metal there is, the more energy it will absorb, passing less vibration on to you. This is the idea behind tattoo machines and it should be kept in mind that the heft of a machine can actually move in your favor.
Practice holding machines and drawing with the clip cords engaged. The slight pull to the rear caused by the clip cord has a different feel than a machine that is not hooked up. Get used to this since this is the set-up that will be constantly used.

When tattooing, the hand rests on the skin, just like writing with a pen. The tube is held in the hand like a pen and the rest of the machine is naturally behind and above the knuckles. The palm of the hand is rested on the skin or the base of the work. This is a steady position and creates what is commonly called the “bridge.” The palm always goes down fírst and then the machine is brought down.
The machine is moved around on the skin by using the palm as a pivot. By swirling the hand on this palm pivot, the machine swings easily into position. Sometimes rubbing a little carbolated vaseline on the palm and little fínger makes it a bit easier. Just make sure too much is not put on to cause slipping and sliding.
The Bridge gives a solid foundation for tattooing and must be practiced for perfection. It will keep the hand steady and give you confídent lines. In tattooing, every line counts and the professional builds on a solid foundation.

Posted on July 25th, 2008 by admin
Tags: cross tattoos, girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, star tattoos, tattoo

If you are having trouble with ink splattering out your tube tip, there could be several reasons for it. A slight splattering is normal. Sometimes it is caused by ink overloading. The reservoir on some bottom ends doesn’t allow for much ink. A square tip is more prone to splattering than a round one. Some lighter frames tend to splatter more than others. Check the tube tips for wear, change them before they wear down to a sharp edge. A machine that is properly tuned and used puts the ink out uniformly and rarely splatters.
By paying attention to these points, you will most likely eliminate any problem:
First, make sure your needle is in the tube right with the needle on the bottom side of the tip. Make sure the open side of the needle bar loop is to your left when it is attached to the armature bar.
Second, make sure the needle bar isn’t hitting the side of the tube as it goes up and down.
Third, make sure the rubber bands are all in good shape and are all pulling evenly. Pull them away from the needle bar one at a time and snap them back into place. Check them to be sure they aren’t weak or worn. It doesn’t hurt to replace your rubber bands every 15 or 20 hours of tattoo time. They don’t cost much and if they aren’t doing their job properly, you can really tax your brain trying to figure out why it’s splattering.

Fourth, make sure your points are properly set. Fifth, look at your tube tips. If they are worn, you will get splatter. Take out the needle and look inside the tip. If there is a groove where the needle rides, file it smooth again. Be very careful not to file away any more of the metal then you have to. The tip is made of soft metal and it’s easy to get carried away. Be careful, a little at a time. On liner tips there will be one groove. On shader tips there will be several separate grooves, like railroad tracks. On the round tips, use a round Swiss needle file to smooth it back out. On flat shader tips and your one needle liner tip, use a square Swiss needle file. If you have to file a tip to get it to stop splattering, be sure to clean it out good with a brush. Sterilize it before you use it again.
The splattering could come from one or all of the above. If one thing doesn’t work, try something else, until you figure it out.
If none of the above worked, change the needle bar to see if that helps.
If that doesn’t work, check the springs and replace them if necessary. Sometimes one side of a spring will break where it’s being held by the screw. It’s hard to spot.
The hard part is, if it starts splattering in the middle of a tattoo, you have to be able to figure it out, or continue with a splattering machine. This will take a lot longer to do if you don’t know what’s going on and your nerves will be shot from anxiety dealing with it.

Posted on July 24th, 2008 by admin
Tags: girl tattoos, tattoo, tattoo art, Tattoo designs, tattoos