One of the most important aspects of all the various mechanics in tattooing, would be the tattoo needle. Sterilization is important, the machines are important and designs are important. But, the tattoo needle is the only link between you and the customer and it is there where all of the other factors meet with the skin. Needles actually puncture the skin and for this reason they must be perfect, absolutely flawless, sharp, straight and in perfect condition.
Needles are soldered on bars called needle bars. There are two types of needle bars, liners and shaders. Liner needle bars are round on the end where the needles are soldered. Shader needle bars are fíat on the end where the needles are soldered.

Liners are grouped tightly together to do outlining with. Shaders are grouped flat, next to each other, to do shading. Use the best needles and needle bars money can buy. They are that important. Don’t mess around with inexpensive needles or sale Ítems. High quality needles are easier on the customer (pain and health wise) and on you (making the tattoo cleaner and sharper). They are not that much more expensive. As a matter of fact, the best needles and bars in the world are not that much at all. Don’t compromise on these Ítems, or you will never be a good tattooist.

Posted on August 1st, 2008 by admin
Tags: girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, tattoo, tattoo art

This is very important and worth repeating. Open end of the needle bar loop is always away from you and is designed this way. Needles must always ride against bottom of the tube tip (the trough) and this ensures this. Look into open end of tube in the manufacturer’s set-up machine. Observe that the bar itself is on top of the needle group and is soldered that way. The needle group rides undemeath the bar against the back of the tube. When the open end of loop is away from you, needles automatically will be positioned against the bottom. With open loop facing away from you, you can tell at a glance if the needles are properly placed or not. It is impossible to do any kind of good tattooing any other way. (i.e., with needle bar positioned differently.)
With open end of loop facing away from you, slip the loop over the tape covered knob on the armature bar. It should be a fairly snug fit. Then place rubber bands over the needle bar like the way the machine carne. Use one, two or three bands to put tensión on needle bar, and keep them as low down on the machine as possible (see drawing Side View).
Now that the machine is basically put together, the tube has to be finally adjust-ed. This will vary the length of the needle tips that are exposed when coming out of the end of the tube. Press the armature bar down against the coils and hold it. Loosen the set screw and adjust tube either up or down to allow needle tips to protrude out the end between 1/16 and 1/8 of an inch when the armature bar is fully pressed forward.

Posted on July 30th, 2008 by admin
Tags: girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, tattoo art

Some tattooists prefer light machines and some prefer heavy ones. This is why some manufacturers offer such models as “lightweights,” but it should be kept in mind that any machine, no matter how hefty it might feel at first, will take some getting used to. But in the long run, it will feel quite good and stable to use. The heft of a machine also acts as a “shock absorber.” The tattoo machine when being used gives off vibrations and these can get you tired awfully fast. Just like certain stabilizers or heavy barreled guns, the more metal there is, the more energy it will absorb, passing less vibration on to you. This is the idea behind tattoo machines and it should be kept in mind that the heft of a machine can actually move in your favor.
Practice holding machines and drawing with the clip cords engaged. The slight pull to the rear caused by the clip cord has a different feel than a machine that is not hooked up. Get used to this since this is the set-up that will be constantly used.

When tattooing, the hand rests on the skin, just like writing with a pen. The tube is held in the hand like a pen and the rest of the machine is naturally behind and above the knuckles. The palm of the hand is rested on the skin or the base of the work. This is a steady position and creates what is commonly called the “bridge.” The palm always goes down fírst and then the machine is brought down.
The machine is moved around on the skin by using the palm as a pivot. By swirling the hand on this palm pivot, the machine swings easily into position. Sometimes rubbing a little carbolated vaseline on the palm and little fínger makes it a bit easier. Just make sure too much is not put on to cause slipping and sliding.
The Bridge gives a solid foundation for tattooing and must be practiced for perfection. It will keep the hand steady and give you confídent lines. In tattooing, every line counts and the professional builds on a solid foundation.

Posted on July 25th, 2008 by admin
Tags: cross tattoos, girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, star tattoos, tattoo

As you keep the foot pedal pushed down, slowly turn the contact screw down to meet the contact point. Your machine will start to run when the contacts get close enough together to make a circuit. A general rule of thumb is that the gap between the shader points when you push down on the armature bar is the thickness of a nickel. The gap between the points on the liner should be about the thickness of a dime. Nickel shader, dime liner. This distance will change slightly with each machine and with the shape the springs are in. If they are weak, you can compensate by turning down the contact screw a bit, not too much. This measure has to be done with the machine off and the armature bar held in the down position. On a machine with heavy-duty coils, this measurement may be doubled. Another way to do it, is to eyeball the distance the armature bar is travelling, as the machine runs, while you adjust the contact screw. When the distance the armature bar is travelling up and down is about the same distance as a dime or a nickel, depending on which machine you are tuning at the time, then you are right.

Posted on July 24th, 2008 by admin
Tags: girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, tattoo art, tattoos

One more type of machine should be mentioned. The very latest state of the art in tattoo machines is the Spaulding & Rogers “Revolution” machine. Totally different in appearance and operation than the regular tattoo machine, it delivers more efficient needle movement, runs smoother and virtually noiseless and is considerably lighter in weight. Also to note is the lack of a steel frame, the Revolution is made of indestructible high-impact nylon plastic and the workings are totally self-contained. A big advantage also is the lack of rubber bands, as this machine utilizes a patented action cam to not only supply movement, but also to securely hold the needle bar. This new machine is changing the tattoo industry and is worth checking out.

The electrical link between the machine and the power supply is the clip cord. One end has two phone jacks for the Power Unit and the other a spring clip connecting device. One hook from the clip cord slips into the hole located in the rear underside top part of the frame, the other hook goes into the hole located in the rear binding post.

Posted on July 22nd, 2008 by admin
Tags: girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, tattoo, tattoos

This chapter is a materials list and their descriptions for the tools of the trade the beginning tattooist is going to need to start out. By no means a complete checklist, it will still itemize the basic tools of tattooing and the tattooist will no doubt add and subtract from this list as their experience warrants. Please don’t get confused by reading this, because each item will eventually be discussed in more detail in some other section of this blog.
After you’ve read this book several times, all of these Ítems will tie themselves in and start to make sense. A materials list for the tattooist to consider would read something like this, not necessarily in the order of importance:
Shop Furniture Work Table — A médium size table (linoleum or glass top for easier cleaning) to
hold items needed while tattooing. Chair — For the tattooist. Should be comfortable. Some prefer rollers to get around. You can spend a lot of time in this. Customer Chair — A comfortable chair for clients to sit in while their tattoo is being done. Lifter Bench — Common weight lifting bench for clients to stretch out on
while doing back or legs. Foot Stool — For the tattooist’s foot to give him elevation for those who do fore
arm type work or balance the tattoo arm on the knee.
Bench Equipment Adjustable Table Light — To get a good look at what you are doing from all
angles. (Do not use fluorescent light.) Paper Towels and Dispenser — For a variety of purposes from wiping ink up to cleaning tattoos.

Sterilizers
“Stericlave” Autoclave — For sterile dressings and equipment. This is a must. Wayne Dri-Clave — Table top. Sterilizer pouches to check sterilizing. Ultrasonic Cleaner — Cleans all residue from tubes, needles, etc. Ultrasonic Solution — For use with Ultrasonic Cleaner. Ultrasonic Tray and Machine Holder — Submersible tray to hold tools in
while in the Ultrasonic Cleaner. Machine Rack — To hold machines while not in use. Contains test tubes
for machines. Benz-All — A germicidal solution that is non-rusting. This does not sterilize,
but keeps sterile equipment clean. For use in machine test tubes.

Posted on July 22nd, 2008 by admin
Tags: free tattoo designs, lower back tattoos, star tattoos, tattoo