You remove your shoes and walk inside. The light changes and you feel a sudden sense of calm. The crowd is still outside, waiting patiently for some drama to unfold. From inside you can see them, pressing against each other and the fence, struggling to peer in the window, to spectate. Vishwas the tattoo-wallah ignores all this, and you look around for the first time at his home/studio.

Posted on July 25th, 2009 by admin
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Traffic grinds to a halt, attracted by the mob on the sidewalk. A thousand eyes are on you—you are the circus come to town, a traveling sideshow, an unwitting performer in the carnival of the city. Cheap thrills for the cheap seats. Crowds beget even more crowds, and just when it gets so thick you wish you were anywhere else on earth, even a nice solitary prison cell, a self-assured, gentle young man emerges from the press of flesh, takes you by the tattooed arm and leads you inside.

Posted on July 24th, 2009 by admin
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You ask someone in halting Hindi about trajwa, one of the many local dialect words for tattooing— which draws a blank stare. Then you roll up your sleeves and show your tattoos, looking for some response. And you get one. Giggles, wild gesturing and pointing—the crowd really goes nuts, with everybody waving and arguing, pushing, pulling, shoving, craning for a better look at the crazy foreign tattoo person.

Posted on July 23rd, 2009 by admin
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If you blinked you’d have missed it, but you stop and look again. Sure as hell, the sign on one shanty says clearly: “VISHWAS TA TTOO ART—Army and Navy Specialist. ” Before too long, a crowd indian tattoo designsgathers to gawk because you—a foreigner—have stopped to look at something. It doesn’t matter what.

Posted on July 22nd, 2009 by admin
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You turn a comer off a decrepit crowded side road and onto one of the broader avenues and walk along, stunned. It’s just as crowded and busy and noisy as the side road, but the intensity knob has been turned up another couple tics. Back from the sidewalk, behind a fence, are rows and rows of low shanty houses, which look like they were constructed as temporary dwellings—shelter from the human storm blowing past the other side of the fence—and just somehow…

Posted on July 21st, 2009 by admin
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