Design your Own Tattoo

Upstairs was a video arcade , next door to the trade stands selling all types of biker fare. Also in the upper level was a room set aside for the tattooists.

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Design your own tattoo: A cross idea

A idea that can be used in any size and any part of the body: A celtic cross tattoo design. It can be coloured too.

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Complications of cosmetic tattoos

Complications of PC
1. Corneal Abrasions: In a survey of permanent makeup instructors taken in 1997, a 40% incidence of corneal abrasions was reported. Dr. Charles S. Zwerling, MD states that it is probably closer to 100% of technicians that have experienced a client with a corneal abrasion. Dr. Zwerling goes on to state “the reason corneal abrasion is not reported more frequently is that the signs and symptoms are not recognized by many dermatechnicians”. With the advent of topicals with a physiologic pH range of 7.4-7.69 (Numquick™ Purple, DOTC Blue™), corneal abrasions are largely limited to those inflicted mechanically or from other chemical factors.
Signs of corneal abrasion include a sensation of a “rock in my eye” or a gritty sensation, sensitivity to light, pain and blurred vision. Practitioners should refer their patient or client to an eye care physician or Emergency Room immediately.
Such a complication is an embarrassment to the practitioner and physicians have expressed concern about non-medical professionals performing permanent eyeliner procedures.
2. Allergic Reactions: Antibiotic ointments, latex, nickel and pigments head the list of allergic reactions related to permanent makeup procedures. Allergic reactions can be either immediate or delayed and both types have been reported in the literature. Glycerin may rarely elicit an allergic reaction.
Lipcolors can be a problem in permanent cosmetics. Rare but real, an allergic reaction to red or yellow can be disastrous for the client, technician and the manufacturer of the problem pigment. Referral to a physician for prompt diagnosis and treatment is the standard of care. Do not try cortisone ointments or “bleeding out the color” by over-tattooing the area. A tiny punch biopsy will reveal the diagnosis and determine further treatment.

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Tattoo payment

In the tattooing trade, payment for tattoos is in cash and in advance. It is hard to take back a tattoo if the customer won’t pay. Same deal for checks. Accept only cash in advance – nonrefundable. A sign up front, “no checks,” also helps. Also, if you do work by appointment, deposits are required to secure it. The appointment goes into an Appointment Book the minute a deposit is received. This deposit is nonrefundable if they do not show up. Usually, a twenty-four cancel notice is required and then deposits are returned. The deposit for an appointment can be taken off the top of the tattoo price. Sometimes a deposit is necessary in the case of special design requests. This is to cover the time involved in the design or the extra to pay an artist to draw one up special. When doing a large piece that requires more than one sitting, always get fifty percent up front and divide the balance up between the following sittings.
Sometimes people will surprise you with really outrageous requests for tattoo work. Usually in weird places that are out of the ordinary. Once again, payment in advance, and for appointments. If you don’t feel comfortable tattooing, let’s say, genitals, for instance, set your price extremely high and out of range. If the customer agrees to pay it, well do it. A private booth or section may be essential when doing bashful customers or women. Some people do not want to be stared at, and you should honor all requests and do your best to please the customer at all times. Never tattoo minors, even when they have parental approval. It is just bad policy and stay away from it. It is also not too smart to tattoo certain exposed body parts. Reconsult chapter on “Skin” for more wisdom on this.
Do not tattoo people who for whatever reason are not capable of making a free informed choice in having a tattoo or not, such as the mentally handicapped. Don’t tattoo minors even with written permission, it isn’t very professional. Tattooists who tattoo small children need counselling and help.
Don’t tattoo pregnant or nursing women. It’s also not a good idea to tattoo vulgar words or dirty pictures. Tattooing should be an honorable art, not a barbaric ritual. A professional attitude draws a line. Never compromise or cross over it. Business is business and don’t deviate from the rules. Names and biker club insignias are a definite no no. The only exception is if you have undeniable proof of biker club membership. Remember, these fellows are very proud of their designs and guard them rather jealously. You are responsible for indiscrete tattooing and will have to answer for it.
It is best not to tattoo in the window of your shop. Regardless of what you may think, there are people out there who consider tattooing obscene. If you flaunt your wares in front of their face, they will remember you for the wrong reasons. It’s not good to attract bad attention to yourself.
Don’t exhibit reptiles, white rats, shrunken heads, skeletons, etc., in your studio as come-ons. The reaction of most people to such props are negative and they are usually repulsed. What you intended as a come-on may be a turn-off. Tattooing can stand on its own merit and such window dressing announces to the world that you may be involved in some strange sect besides tattooing. That hardly inspires confidence in the people you seek to do business with.

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Some basic fundamentals on holding tattoo machines

Now, let’s deviate for a minute and review a few basic fundamentals. When holding a tattoo machine already set-up, turn it so it is facing you. Not in profile, but in a front view with coils on the right and the frame arm on the left. You will notice several things pertinent to needle making. First, that the open end of the needle bar (the loop that fits on the tape on the armature bar), this loop, the open end, always points to the left. This is a standard and never changes.
Now, look down at the opening in an open sanitary tube. Observe that the actual bar is towards you and the needle group behind it. In other words, the needle group is in back and the needle bar is in front. This is also a standard position and never changes. Get this down pat in your head. This position makes for a smooth motion and smooth tattooing. No matter what kind of needle bar is being made, this set-up never changes. Remember that. (Check Tube Drawing in Chapter 6.)
Back to the needle making. You have a nice tight three needle group and are ready to solder it to the bar. If you recall the last chapter, always use a round needle bar for liners. This is now what is needed, a round stainless steel liner bar. With the three needle head now on the needle bar jig, insert the needle group in the small hole in the jig head. The top needle in the triangle should be the uppermost or on the top of the rest, and the group points should be just touching the back of the jig trough located in the head. Place in a round liner bar. On the pin, located in the rear of the jig, fits the liner bar loop. The open end of the loop must always face to the right. The bar rides under the needle group, or the needle group rides on top of the bar. Clamp down the swivel bar and secure snugly with the wing nut. Solder on the needle group to the liner bar. Carefully pull out and you have a three needle liner bar. Check the points for perfection. Store carefully for sterilization and use.

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Needle groups on tattoo machines

Needle making in itself is an exact science. This is the process of actually sol-dering the needle groups together as a unit and then soldering this unit to the needle bar. As a tattooist, you will no doubt be doing this yourself in the future. The entire process is explained in detail in the next chapter. For now though, do not attempt it because you already have enough to do. The beginning tattooist should purchase needle bars (with the needles already on them) from a reputable dealer in tattooing equipment. There are several reasons for this. First, you will get to know what good ones look like. Needle bars from a supplier are just about always perfect and made by an experienced professional. Study them and get to know all the aspects of the various kinds. Second, it gives you a chance to start building up a collection of needle bars. When the needles are no longer useable, the needle bars still are, and can be used over and over again. With care, they can last for many years.
A tattoo needle’s lifespan is very short. If you get three médium tattoos out of one, you are stretching it. Needles cannot be sharpened and when they are used up, solder them off and save the bars. Many professionals use one needle for one tattoo. If it is a big tattoo, it may take two to three needles. This ensures sharp needles all the time. Don’t keep using the same needles. Use them once and get rid of them. Be liberal and you will be better off.
Needle groups used for outlining come in four common sizes. Needle groups are the number of needles on the end of the liner bar. They are one needle groups, three needle groups, four and then five needle groups.

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Setting Tatttoo Machine Tubes

This chapter requires some careful study since it covers a simple but important process. This process is putting needle bars in tubes and adjusting the tube, bar and machine for proper tattooing. This will become second nature after awhile. Never, ever rush this process because if you’re not paying cióse attention to what you are doing, the needle tips are going to get all damaged. You are going to have to do this every time the tubes and needles are sterilized and the machine has to be put back together. If business is good and proper sterilization is done, you could be assembling machines several times a day.
Tubes and needles should be sterilized the fírst thing in the morning, assembled and wrapped in clean tissue until needed later in the day. Since this process is done for every tattoo (sterilization, assembling the tubes, needles and machines), it is easy to see how a person would rush this process, especially if people are waiting. (In this day and age, you have an obligation to every customer to be sure that this procedure is done correctly).
The key is to be absolutely familiar with the correct assembly process and make it a point to concéntrate every time the tubes are assembled.
New machines bought from suppliers should arrive properly set-up, but the tubes and needles are not sterile. They still have to be disassembled and sterilized. They should be studied to get familiar with a properly set-up machine. It is a good idea to buy at least two machines in the beginning. This way one will be already assembled from the manufacturer as you take the second one apart. This will be a good guide in case you forget how they go back together. Hopefully, any confusión here will be avoided with the information presented in this chapter.

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Power Unit for Tattoo Machines

Tattoo machines run on direct current. In the beginning, you may want to use a battery set-up. They are simple and cheap at first. The drawback is they have to be maintained and charged.
You can get a good Power Unit for less than the price of two batteries. A Power Unit is handy because it can be plugged into the wall socket, and is fairly trouble-free. Excellent units are available on the Market today. Even if a Power Unit is used, a battery set-up is a useful piece of spare equipment to have around.
Also, if you have a cellar, you may want to use two 12 volt auto batteries and a trickle charger. If so, use caution as overcharged batteries are highly explosive, and you don’t want any battery acid around the area of your work.
A rheostat mounted on a bakelite panel provided with connecting posts may be available from your tattoo supply house.
Power Units come in different sizes. Buy the best one that you can afford. A good power supply is very important.

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Guideline to get started for tatttooing

This list is not totally complete, but it is a good guideline to get you started. Few people can purchase it all at once and must slowly put it together. Don’t be fright-ened by the long list, all the equipment is quite small and portable. Compared to other businesses, this list is pretty simple and not as expensive as some practices can be. Buying in order of importance and practicality first seems to be a smart direction to follow.
Tattooists must have an organized área around them for any kind of efficient work. The universal approach is a work table in front of the worker for proper and easy location of Ítems. You may make the table, but the best and most professional one you can afford would be a wiser choice. It’s important to make sure it is fíat, sits sturdy, and is easy to clean and keep clean. It should also be large enough to hold everything you will need. It is advisable to have a knee cutout in the front of the table (rather then solid) so the customer on some occasions can get right up cióse to the table to keep your reaching to a minimum. A standard table is about 20 inches wide, 48 inches long and a comfortable height off the ground. The top can be fórmica, finished hardwood or preferably stainless steel or glass. A small sink with hot and cold faueets should be mounted in the top off to the side. Sit in a chair beside the sink, facing the farther end of the table so the sink will be on your right side. If you are left handed, everything will be the opposite.
Everything should be within easy reach. The things used most often should be located the closest to you, and the Ítems used less often are located further away. The items used the most are things like caps full of ink, the carbolated vaseline and the spray bottle of green soap. Also, the lamp and paper towels should be within easy reach. Slightly further back, but stül within easy reach, is the spray bottle of alcohol, extra ink caps, three washes to clean the ink out of tubes when colors are changed, going from the first distilled water to the second distilled water to the alcohol last. A little further back are bandage supplies, extra needle bars, tubes and inks, with machine rack just barely within reach to hold spare tattoo machines or another machine with a different set-up. One for outlines and one for shading and coloring.

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Medical Stainless for tattooing

Medical Stainless Trays — For needles. Three Glass or Stainless Trays (With Sealing Tops) — One tray containing liner and needle bars. (l’s point one way – 3’s point the other way). One tray containing shader needle bars — (4’s point one way, 6’s point the other way).
One tray containing shader and liner needle tubes (shaders point one way, liners the other way). Glass Quart Jar — One filled with sterile ink caps. Spray Bottles — To hold isopropyl alcohol, green soap mixture (three parts water/one part soap), etc. Carbolated Vaseline — For stencils and skin. Antibiotic Ointments — Such as Bacitracin, for healing. Green Soap — Cleanup and preps. Does not sterilize. Tongue Depressors — To apply ointments. Disposable Razors — For skin prep. Bandage — For tattoos. Handi Wrap — For tattoos. Hospital Tape — To adhere dressings.
Rubbing Alcohol — Disinfectant for cleanups. Does not sterilize. Scissors — Stainless hospital quality. Hemostats — Stainless hospital quality. Gloves — Surgical látex gloves for tattooing.

Acétate — Plástic sheeting for stencils.
Cutter — To put groove in acétate.
Powder — Stencil médium for use with acétate.
Ink — Hecktograph Ink.
Tracing Paper — For ink tracings.
Deodorant Stick — For applying stencil to skin.
Inks — A color assortment and black.
Ink Bottles — Four ounce twist top.
Caps — To hold ink.
Holder — To keep caps in place.
Flash — Lots of designs are needed.
Pencils/Watercolors — To color flash sheets.

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