There are many brands of paper tissues, all are not satisfactory for use in tattooing. Some will just pull apart as soon as you start wiping ink with them, others are very dusty and this is where your big problem starts, especially with outliners. Small unseen paper dust particles will be picked up off the skin between the outliner needles. At once, your outline will change from a solid line to one that looks like two lines and with a very scratchy appearance. Also, the line will be starving for ink because of the paper tissue dust packed in between the needles. To remedy this problem, take a single needle and carefully pick out the paper particles from between the needles, after that, a few seconds in the ultrasonic cleaner and your outline needles will work like new.
When outlining, just like the rest of tattooing, close attention must be paid to what one is doing. Check needles frequently to make sure they are not hanging up. If the needles continuously hang up, they are probably sticking out of the tube too far and need adjustment, this usually happens only with a round tip tube. The needle tips should be just outside the tube tip so they can barely be felt with the machine off.
Unless the machine is running too fast, those needles aren’t going in as deep as they appear to be, but if it’s running too slow, you will lack depth. Don’t run the machine faster than what you can keep pace with and always work as shallow as possible.
What would be a good speed for single needle would be too slow with more than one needle. Also, using more needles reduces that tingling sensation that most people say they feel. By reducing the number of needles all the way down to one, they will feel less tingling. For back work, use a three or five needle outliner, as opposed to a single needle for a thicker, flowing line.
There are two ways of working an outliner. Use very short strokes and have only enough needle showing below tip to be visible when machine is resting. Move machine along so tip is in contact with skin. Otherwise, use longer strokes, set tube a little higher in the jaws and have a little more needle showing below the tip. When doing this, work off the needle exclusively, don’t try touching the skin with the tip of tube. A good system is to use the former for large body pieces (the skin must be very taut), and the latter for small intricate work.
The tattoo outline should be sharp, solid and definite. As the machine is being held and bridged, the needles should be just skimming the skin surface. A tattooist doesn’t have to dig it in. Don’t use brute force, the machine will do the work. The tattooist’s job is to guide the course of the needles so they puncture holes in the skin where the design calls for them. The ink, flowing along the needles, enters the holes by the way of gravity.
The main causes of bad lines are: Damaged points, (check frequently) side to side needle quiver, not enough ink flowing at the tip, in too big a hurry, too much pressure of the machine, digging into the skin and tattooing loose skin not stretched tight. If all these errors are avoided, few problems will occur and good sharp outlines will be consistent.

Posted on September 1st, 2008 by admin
Tags: angelina jolie tattoos, tattoo art, tattoos

Filed under: Outlining | No Comments »

Tattooing must be done on tight skin. It will have to be stretched by the free hand of the tattooist. It creates a taut and solid surface to work on. For all practical purposes, it is impossible to tattoo loose skin. No matter what style of stretching is used, just make sure the needles go into a tight skin surface. (Refer to Skin Chapter for more on this.)
When putting ink into the skin, the machine should take on a subdued sound as soon as the needle touches skin. This is called “choking down.” If it doesn’t sound like this, the machine is probably running too fast, try to slow it down a little. It doesn’t take a lot of power to do good tattoo work.

To begin, start with a few insignificant lines near the bottom of the tattoo. This is for settling yourself in and the client down to the feeling and to warm up yourself with some practice. Somewhere on the design are a few lines that are less important, or secondary, to the major or more important lines. These secondary lines are the ones to start on and work your way up to the primary lines. Make sure the bridge is solid for the area and make a practice stroke. Do this over every time you tattoo. It rehearses the movement for the fingers and gives you time for any last minute shifts or adjustments. Have the machine off the skin, press the footswitch to turn it on. The machine should be running before you put the needle into the skin. Never start it while in the skin. Make the line without hesitation and continue in this manner. Don’t wait until the machine has run out of ink, refill it every few lines and keep it full for the whole job.
Keep a paper tissue wrapped around the two lesser fingers of the tattooing hand for wiping. As the work progresses, the working hand neatly tilts over to wipe the work when it is necessary and then just continue tattooing. It’s efficient and close to the work. Press gently straight down and then lift straight up. You tattoo, then wipe, then tattoo some more, and wipe, etc. Keep a fresh supply of tissues nearby for this purpose.

Posted on September 1st, 2008 by admin
Tags: dragon tattoo, free tattoo design, religious tattoo

Filed under: Outlining | No Comments »

Outlining by itself just might be the single most important aspect of a good tattoo. It takes special attention and concentration while performing. A cleancut line done with confidence displays professionalism and is the solid foundation for a great tattoo. The world’s greatest foundation is useless if the bricks are faulty, and the greatest quality outline is only as good as the pattern. In other words, as important as good outlining is, the outline itself is only as good as the line on the stencil. So, the first important step in outlining is taking the time to make the best possible stencil that can be made. Keep the stencil simple. In the case of a complicated design, use only the major outlines to establish the design and the other detail type lines can be added later by freehand.
Assuming the preparation of the skin has just been finished and the area of the design is lightly coated with carbolated vaseline (see Chapter on Sterile Techniques first), just the design and not too much beyond it, so the hand won’t slip around and the bridges will be more stable. The first real step is to fill the reservoir of the machine tip with black tattoo ink. To do this property, the machine should not be running and lightly dip the tip into an ink cap holding black ink. Careful pains must be taken not to touch any surface of the cap with the needle tip. The end of the tube will fill up. This supply of ink does not last very long and must be frequently dipped back into the cap for a refill. Run the machine over a paper tissue to test the ink flow. If the machine spurts and spits out ink, stop it for an adjustment. (Check Chapter on Machine Setting). Usually adjustment of the bands will correct the problem.
Always tattoo either forward or sideways with the machine. Outlines and shading both are done like this. In this direction, the needles have a slight backward pressure on them against the skin, which keeps the needles in the bottom of the tube where the ink is. Rubber bands keep this position in check, but tattooing in this direction keeps the needles working where they belong and does not work against the natural function of the machine. It makes nice tattooing easier. Using a square tip tube is a plus.
Outlining is done from the bottom up, since sweat, blood and ink run down, it makes sense to start at the bottom to avoid smudging while working up. Since wiping the area continuously while doing the tattoo will remove the stencil, starting in the bottom position will prevent this.

Posted on September 1st, 2008 by admin
Tags: angelina jolie tattoos, cross tattoos, flower tattoos, tribal tattoos

Filed under: Outlining | No Comments »