If you are going along and all of a sudden your machine quits, first check to see if it is your machine or your power pack. To do this, try your other machine to see if it will work. If it is your machine and you can’t fix it on the spot, you can always put your needle bar and tube on your other machine and reset the point gap as a last resort to finish the tattoo.
If your machine won’t run at all, it is either a short or an open in your circuit. First check to make sure your points are clean. If there is something caught between them, it will break the circuit. Hold the armature bar down with your thumb to open the contact and blow hard on the points. If this doesn’t clean them, try pulling a small strip of paper through the points while they are closed. If this doesn’t work, try pulling a strip of emery cloth through them, grit side up, then grit side down. Then blow to get any grit out. If this works, you will probably want to readjust the point setting slightly to get it buzzing “just right” again.
Another area that shouldn’t be overlooked is weak coils. If your machine won’t run at all, or has very little power, it could be your coils. If your coils are bad, you can replace them by taking out the two screws in the bottom of the frame, being careful to note which washers go where, under the coils. Replace with new coils. When you melt the solder to disconnect the old coils, reattach your new coil wires at the same time. If your machine has a capacitor on it, you may want to replace it too, at the same time.
If your machine just up and quits on you all at once, or won’t run when you take it out, look for any loose or broken wires or connections. The tattoo machine is really quite simple, with few adjustments and fewer moving parts. Due to the constant vibration of the machine, you have to constantly fool with it, readjusting and tightening this and that. Daily maintenance is the key.

Posted on July 24th, 2008 by admin
Tags: angel tattoos, feminine tattoos, heart tattoos, tattoo gallery, tattoos

Listen very carefully to the buzz of your machine. You might have to turn the contact screw in or out just a little until you get that right sound. It should sound real smooth. Listen carefully to the sound of the machine as you turn the contact screw and you will be able to “hear” the ideal setting if you pay attention. It won’t be choppy and clatter, yet it will have plenty of power and have a long enough stroke to allow the needle bar to travel between 1/16 and 3/32 inch up and down.

Once you get used to the “purr” that it makes when it is running good, you will be able to keep your points set at optimum efficiency quickly and easily just by hearing it. When it begins to “purr,” take your foot off the pedal and tighten the set screw to lock the contact screw in that position. Then push the foot pedal again to be sure that it is still tuned “right” and doesn’t need any further adjustment.

After you attach the tube and needle bar, you may have to readjust the point gap slightly to compensate for the extra weight. If so, loosen the set screw and push down on the pedal as you screw the contact screw down a tiny bit more, listening to the sound of the machine until it is running smoothly and strongly. Just remember that the smoother your machine runs, the better it will tattoo for you.

Posted on July 24th, 2008 by admin
Tags: tattoo, tattoo art, Tattoo designs, tattoos

As you keep the foot pedal pushed down, slowly turn the contact screw down to meet the contact point. Your machine will start to run when the contacts get close enough together to make a circuit. A general rule of thumb is that the gap between the shader points when you push down on the armature bar is the thickness of a nickel. The gap between the points on the liner should be about the thickness of a dime. Nickel shader, dime liner. This distance will change slightly with each machine and with the shape the springs are in. If they are weak, you can compensate by turning down the contact screw a bit, not too much. This measure has to be done with the machine off and the armature bar held in the down position. On a machine with heavy-duty coils, this measurement may be doubled. Another way to do it, is to eyeball the distance the armature bar is travelling, as the machine runs, while you adjust the contact screw. When the distance the armature bar is travelling up and down is about the same distance as a dime or a nickel, depending on which machine you are tuning at the time, then you are right.

Posted on July 24th, 2008 by admin
Tags: girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, tattoo art, tattoos

Next, line up the contact point in a direct line over the nipple on the armature bar and tighten. Then line up the contact point on the front spring in a direct line with the contact screw. The rear spring should be snug against the rear screw in most cases. Tighten rear screw. The contact screw points to One o’clock, when you hold up the machine and point the front (tube end) to your left. It is in this position when it is new, and should stay in this position.
Attach the clip cord to your machine and turn on your power pack. Holding the machine firmly in your left hand by the frame, slowly turn the contact screw down (clockwise) to meet the contact point on the front spring. Be careful to only touch the contact screw by the rubber tip or it will shock you. If the rubber tip is missing, you can wrap a piece of electrical tape around the end, or even a rubber band in an emergency.

Posted on July 24th, 2008 by admin
Tags: angel tattoos, flower tattoos, free tattoos patterns, heart tattoos

After continued use, the front spring that holds the contact point and the back spring that holds the armature bar to the frame will weaken and should be replaced. If your coloring is getting sketchy, it could be weak springs; one or both of them. If they are weak, they won’t have enough bounce to penetrate the skin anymore and are springing back before any depth is attained. Before removing spring and armature bar, put a mark on the side of the armature bar and continue the mark across the center of the washer on top of the front coil. (See Diagram.) After you have made your repairs, be sure both marks line up when replacing the armature bar. This is important because the armature bar has been seated in on the top of the front coil and should go back in the exact same place for top performance of your machine.
To replace the springs, take needle and bands off, loosen the set screw on the front binding post and back the contact screw out four or five turns. Then loosen the rear screw on top of the machine and remove the entire assembly consisting of the rear spring, the armature bar and the front (contact) spring.
Remove the screw that is holding both springs to the armature bar. First, put the screw back in the hole in the rear spring and start it into the armature bar. Make sure you still have both washers on the screw, on top, above the springs. Next, put on the front spring, placing it on top of the rear spring and under both washers. This front spring will just slide on the screw. Tighten finger tight. Before replacing assembly, take this opportunity to buff your contact screw, removing any pits.
To replace the assembly, slide the rear spring under the loosened rear screw, making sure the rear spring is back all the way against the screw and under both washers. Tighten finger tight.

Posted on July 24th, 2008 by admin
Tags: design your own tattoos, fairy tattoos, girl tattoos, star tattoos

Keeping your equipment running smoothly is very important and takes more than just a little luck. You have to understand all aspects of the machines and how to tune them.
One of your duties will be to check the contact points on a regular basis. Keep the points and the contact screws in good shape so they will make good “contact.”
To set the points, be sure they are first clean and smooth. A point file can be used to flatten the surfaces if either one of them is burned or pitted. Silver points are readily replaceable and if they can’t be filed back into shape, put on a new spring with a new contact point on it, or just file off the old point and put on a new one. If it can be repaired, do so, taking care not to file off any more of the point than you need to. Emery cloth is very effective in cleaning up both the points and the contact screw, also a burnishing file works well.
Use a light touch on the procedure, or you will go through a lot more contact points than necessary. A quick buff job when they get slightly pitted is about all that is required. Be sure to buff the contact screw too, so you will have good contact there.
To get longer life out of the points, spray them with a good contact cleaner occasionally.

Posted on July 24th, 2008 by admin
Tags: tattoo, tattoo art, Tattoo designs, tattoos

Tattoo machines run on direct current. In the beginning, you may want to use a battery set-up. They are simple and cheap at first. The drawback is they have to be maintained and charged.
You can get a good Power Unit for less than the price of two batteries. A Power Unit is handy because it can be plugged into the wall socket, and is fairly trouble-free. Excellent units are available on the Market today. Even if a Power Unit is used, a battery set-up is a useful piece of spare equipment to have around.
Also, if you have a cellar, you may want to use two 12 volt auto batteries and a trickle charger. If so, use caution as overcharged batteries are highly explosive, and you don’t want any battery acid around the area of your work.
A rheostat mounted on a bakelite panel provided with connecting posts may be available from your tattoo supply house.
Power Units come in different sizes. Buy the best one that you can afford. A good power supply is very important.

Posted on July 22nd, 2008 by admin
Tags: butterfly tattoos, cross tattoos, design your own tattoo, fairy tattoos, tattoo art

One more type of machine should be mentioned. The very latest state of the art in tattoo machines is the Spaulding & Rogers “Revolution” machine. Totally different in appearance and operation than the regular tattoo machine, it delivers more efficient needle movement, runs smoother and virtually noiseless and is considerably lighter in weight. Also to note is the lack of a steel frame, the Revolution is made of indestructible high-impact nylon plastic and the workings are totally self-contained. A big advantage also is the lack of rubber bands, as this machine utilizes a patented action cam to not only supply movement, but also to securely hold the needle bar. This new machine is changing the tattoo industry and is worth checking out.

The electrical link between the machine and the power supply is the clip cord. One end has two phone jacks for the Power Unit and the other a spring clip connecting device. One hook from the clip cord slips into the hole located in the rear underside top part of the frame, the other hook goes into the hole located in the rear binding post.

Posted on July 22nd, 2008 by admin
Tags: girl tattoos, lower back tattoos, tattoo, tattoos

A. Machine Frame — Although many frames look different, they all have these basic features; the jaws in which the needle tube is clamped in (via wing nut . The base of the frame is where the coils are mounted. The spring brace is in the rear and supports the rear binding post and armature bar. The side arm holds the front binding post.

B. Machine Coils — Steel Core, come in eight or ten wrap (wraps of wire around core) cotton or enamel wrapped wire. These coils act as electromagnets. They attach to base with screws . Spacing washers ride underneath cores.
C. Machine Springs — Front spring holds contact point . Rear one attaches to armature bar and spring brace on frame with screw and washers . Provides resilience for up and down needle motion.
D. Armature Bar — Provides steel mass for magnetic pull. Also is link to tattoo needle .
E. Front Binding Post — Holds contact screw and adjusts for align ment by use of nylon washers. Contact screw can be locked in position by lock screw .
F. Rear Binding Post — Provides contact point for clip cord. Adjusts for alignment with washers .
G. Capacitor — Usually 10, MFD, 25 volts standard. Can be fitted to any machine to minimize sparking and arcing.
H. Bands — Provide even pressure on needle bar. Should be replaced often. Tubes — Use only Stainless Steel open Sanitary Tubes. Encases needle and bar . Provides good gripping surface.

Posted on July 22nd, 2008 by admin
Tags: cross tattoos, girl tattoos, star tattoos, tattoo

1. Front Spring
2. Washer - 10/32″
3. Washer - 8/32″
4. Screw
5. Rear Spring
6. Screw, Binder Head - 3/4
7. Screw, Binder Head - 3/4
S. Extruded Washer, Black Nylon
9. Soldering Lug
10. Cap, Contact Screw
11. Contact Screw Sterling Silver, 6/32 x 1
12. Binding Post
13. Screw, Black Nylon, 8/32 x 1/4
14. Rubber Bands
15. Machine Frame
16. Binder Screw (3/4)
17. Washer, Black Nylon, Flat
18. Band Hook
19. Screw, Flat Head Machine, Stainless Steel, 8/32 x 1/4
20. Screw - 8/32 x 3/4
21. Needle Bar
22. Needle Tube
23. Tube Cap
24. Capacitor
25. Steel Shims
26. Machine Coil
27. Hospital Tape
28. Armature Bar
29. Contact Point (Sterling Silver)

Posted on July 22nd, 2008 by admin
Tags: tattoo, tattoo art, Tattoo designs, tattoos